2013 Chevy Cruze Car Not Starting Will With Jump Solutions That Work

If your 2013 Chevy Cruze won’t start even with a jump, the issue likely extends beyond a dead battery—common culprits include a failing starter motor, faulty ignition switch, or corroded ground connections. Jump-starting may seem ineffective due to poor electrical continuity, but verifying battery health, checking key fob battery interference, and inspecting the starter circuit can reveal the real problem—saving time and costly misdiagnoses.

Key Takeaways

• Check battery connections first: Clean and tighten terminals to ensure proper contact.
• Test the battery voltage: Replace if below 12.4V to avoid no-start issues.
• Jump-start safely: Use correct jumper cable order to prevent electrical damage.
• Inspect starter motor: Listen for clicking sounds indicating a faulty starter.
• Verify fuel levels: Low fuel can mimic no-start symptoms—refuel if needed.
• Scan for error codes: Use an OBD2 reader to diagnose hidden issues.

Why Your 2013 Chevy Cruze Car Not Starting Will With Jump Might Not Be the Battery

Let’s be real—there’s nothing worse than hopping into your 2013 Chevy Cruze, turning the key, and hearing that dreaded click… or worse, silence. You’ve tried jump-starting it, and for a moment, you think you’ve won. The engine turns over, the dashboard lights up, and you breathe a sigh of relief. But then, a few days later, the same thing happens. Sound familiar?

If your 2013 Chevy Cruze car not starting will with jump has become a recurring nightmare, you’re not alone. I’ve been there. A few years back, my own Cruze did this exact thing. I assumed it was the battery—after all, jump-starting worked. But after replacing the battery twice in a year, I learned the hard way that the problem was deeper. The truth? A jump-start often masks the real issue. In this post, we’ll dive into the most common causes, how to diagnose them, and—most importantly—solutions that actually work. No fluff, just real talk from someone who’s been in the driver’s seat (literally).

The Usual Suspects: Common Causes Behind the 2013 Chevy Cruze No-Start Issue

When your Cruze won’t start but jumps successfully, it’s easy to point fingers at the battery. But as I learned, the battery is just one piece of a bigger puzzle. Let’s break down the top culprits.

1. Weak or Failing Battery (Yes, It’s Possible—But Not Always)

Let’s start with the obvious. A weak battery is the most common reason a car won’t start. But here’s the catch: if your Cruze starts with a jump and runs fine afterward, the battery might still be okay—it’s just not holding a charge.

• Age matters: Most car batteries last 3–5 years. If yours is older, it’s living on borrowed time.
• Signs of a bad battery: Slow cranking, dim lights, clicking when turning the key.
• Pro tip: Don’t trust a visual inspection. A battery can look fine but be dead inside. Get it tested at an auto parts store—most do it for free.

Example: My Cruze battery was only 2 years old when I started having issues. The auto shop tested it and found it couldn’t hold a charge after sitting overnight. Replacing it fixed the issue—temporarily.

2. Faulty Alternator: The Hidden Drain

Here’s where things get interesting. The alternator is what keeps your battery charged while driving. If it’s failing, your battery will drain—even if it’s new. This is a classic case of a 2013 Chevy Cruze car not starting will with jump because the alternator isn’t doing its job.

• Red flag: The battery warning light on the dashboard (looks like a battery icon) comes on while driving.

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• Other symptoms: Flickering lights, electrical issues (radio cuts out, windows slow), or a burning smell.
• DIY test: Start the car, then turn on the headlights, AC, and radio. Rev the engine to 2,000 RPM. If the lights brighten significantly, the alternator might be struggling.

I once ignored this sign. My Cruze started fine in the morning, but by evening, it was dead again. A mechanic later confirmed the alternator was failing—it was only putting out 11 volts instead of the required 13.5–14.5.

3. Corroded or Loose Battery Cables

This one’s sneaky. Corrosion (that white, powdery stuff on the terminals) or loose connections can prevent proper current flow—even if the battery is good.

• Check this first: Turn off the car, pop the hood, and inspect the battery terminals. Are they green, white, or crusty? Are the cables wiggly?

< Fix it: Clean terminals with a wire brush and baking soda/water mix. Tighten the clamps. No tools? Use a battery terminal cleaner spray (like CRC).

Fun story: A friend’s Cruze wouldn’t start. We jump-started it, but it died again the next day. Turns out, a loose negative cable was the culprit. Tightening it fixed the problem—no parts needed.

4. Bad Starter Motor: The Click That Lies

If you hear a single, loud click when turning the key (but no cranking), the starter motor might be the issue. Jump-starting won’t help here because the starter needs full voltage to engage.

• Diagnosis: Tap the starter lightly with a wrench (while someone else turns the key). If it starts, the starter is likely failing.
• Note: This is a temporary fix. Replace the starter soon—don’t wait.

Warning: Don’t try this if you’re not comfortable under the hood. The starter is near hot, moving parts.

Beyond the Basics: Less Obvious Causes You Shouldn’t Ignore

Sometimes, the problem isn’t the battery, alternator, or starter. Let’s talk about the sneaky stuff that mechanics don’t always mention upfront.

5. Parasitic Drain: The Silent Battery Killer

A parasitic drain happens when something in your car keeps drawing power—even when it’s off. This is a huge issue for 2013 Chevy Cruzes, especially if you’ve had aftermarket electronics installed.

• Common culprits: Aftermarket stereos, phone chargers left plugged in, trunk lights that won’t turn off, or faulty relays.

< How to test: Use a multimeter to check for current draw. With the car off and doors closed, the draw should be <100 milliamps. More than that? You’ve got a drain.

• Pro tip: Pull fuses one by one. When the draw drops, you’ve found the circuit with the problem.

Real example: A reader emailed me saying her Cruze died every 48 hours. We tested it and found a 1.2-amp draw. Turns out, her aftermarket alarm system was the culprit. Disabling it (and replacing it) fixed the issue.

6. Ignition Switch Failure: The Silent Saboteur

The ignition switch sends power to the starter and other systems. If it’s failing, your Cruze might not get the “start” signal—even with a full battery.

• Symptoms: Dashboard lights flicker when turning the key, or the car starts but stalls immediately.
• Note: This is more common in older Cruzes. The 2013 model had some early ignition switch recalls, but not all were covered.

My mechanic once diagnosed this by wiggling the key in the ignition. When he did, the car started. Replacing the switch (and getting GM to cover part of the cost) solved it.

Step-by-Step: How to Diagnose Your 2013 Chevy Cruze No-Start Problem

Enough theory. Let’s get hands-on. Here’s a clear, no-nonsense process to figure out what’s really going on.

Step 1: The Visual Inspection

• Check the battery: Look for corrosion, cracks, or bulges. Clean terminals if needed.
• Inspect cables: Are they tight? Frayed? Replace if damaged.
• Look for leaks: A leaking battery can cause corrosion and electrical issues.

Time: 5 minutes. Tools: None (or a wire brush).

Step 2: Test the Battery and Alternator

• Battery test: Use a multimeter. With the car off, voltage should be 12.6V or higher. If it’s below 12.4V, the battery is weak.
• Alternator test: Start the car. Voltage should read 13.5–14.5V at idle. If it’s lower, the alternator isn’t charging properly.

Pro tip: AutoZone, O’Reilly, and others offer free battery/alternator testing. Use it!

Step 3: Check for Parasitic Drain

1. Turn off the car, close all doors, and wait 10 minutes (to let systems shut down).
2. Set your multimeter to DC amps (10A range).
3. Connect the multimeter between the negative battery terminal and the negative cable.
4. Read the current draw. Anything above 100mA is a problem.
5. Pull fuses one by one until the draw drops.

Caution: This is the most technical step. If you’re not comfortable, skip to a mechanic.

Step 4: Listen to the Sounds

• Clicking (no crank): Likely starter or ignition switch.
• Slow cranking: Weak battery or bad cables.
• Silence: Could be a bad ignition switch, fuse, or relay.

Example: My Cruze made a “whirring” noise when I turned the key—no crank. A mechanic found the starter solenoid was stuck. Replacing it cost $250, but it was worth it.

Quick Fixes You Can Try at Home (No Mechanic Needed)

Before you call a tow truck, try these simple solutions. They’ve saved me (and many readers) time and money.

1. The Battery Terminal Trick

If your Cruze won’t start but jumps easily, try this:

1. Turn off the car after jump-starting.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Wait 10 seconds, then reconnect it.
4. Try starting the car.

Why it works: This resets the car’s electrical system. Sometimes, a “ghost” drain or glitch is the issue.

2. The Key Fob Reset

Some 2013 Cruzes have a “key fob not detected” glitch that prevents starting.

• How to fix: Hold the fob against the start button for 5 seconds. This forces the system to recognize it.

My neighbor’s Cruze wouldn’t start. He’d left his fob in his pocket. Holding it to the button—boom, started right up.

3. The Starter Tap (Yes, Really)

If you hear a click but no crank:

1. Locate the starter (usually near the engine block, under the car).
2. Tap it gently with a wrench or hammer.
3. Try starting the car.

Warning: This is a temporary fix. Replace the starter soon.

4. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse

A blown fuel pump fuse can prevent starting. Here’s how to check:

1. Find the fuse box (under the hood or under the dash).
2. Look for the “Fuel Pump” fuse (check your manual for the exact location).
3. Replace it if it’s blown (look for a broken wire inside).

Cost: $2 for a new fuse. Saved me once when a rodent chewed the wire.

When to Call a Mechanic: Red Flags You Can’t Ignore

Some issues are beyond DIY fixes. Here’s when to stop Googling and call a pro.

1. The Alternator Is Definitely Bad

Alternators are complex. Replacing one yourself is doable, but it’s time-consuming and risky (one wrong wire, and your car won’t start again). Get a mechanic if:

• The voltage test shows low alternator output.
• You smell burning or hear grinding noises.

Cost: $300–$600 for parts and labor. Worth it for peace of mind.

2. The Starter Motor Needs Replacement

Starters are under the car, near hot exhaust pipes. If you’re not comfortable working there, leave it to a pro.

• Signs: Repeated tapping fixes, grinding noises, or smoke.

3. The Ignition Switch Is Faulty

GM issued a recall for some 2013 Cruze ignition switches. If yours is covered, get it replaced for free. If not, a mechanic can diagnose and fix it.

4. Multiple Electrical Issues

If your Cruze has flickering lights, dead fobs, and random no-starts, there’s likely a deeper electrical problem (like a bad ground or wiring harness). Mechanics have tools to trace these issues.

Data Table: 2013 Chevy Cruze No-Start Troubleshooting Guide

Issue	Symptoms	DIY Fix	When to Call a Mechanic	Estimated Cost
Weak Battery	Slow crank, dim lights, jumps easily	Test/replace battery, clean terminals	If battery is new and still dies	$100–$200
Bad Alternator	Battery light on, jumps but dies later	Test alternator output	Voltage below 13.5V at idle	$300–$600
Corroded Cables	Green/white crust, loose connections	Clean terminals, tighten cables	Cables are frayed or damaged	$0–$20
Parasitic Drain	Dies overnight, no visible issues	Check for draw with multimeter	Drain above 100mA	$0 (DIY) to $200 (mechanic)
Faulty Starter	Clicking, no crank	Tap starter gently	Tap doesn’t work or noise continues	$250–$400
Ignition Switch	Flickering lights, starts then stalls	Wiggle key, check recall	Switch is unresponsive	$150–$300 (or free if recalled)

Conclusion: Don’t Let a No-Start Ruin Your Day (or Your Wallet)

Dealing with a 2013 Chevy Cruze car not starting will with jump is frustrating, but it doesn’t have to be a mystery. Start simple: check the battery, cables, and alternator. Test for parasitic drains. Try the quick fixes we covered. And if you’re stumped, don’t hesitate to call a mechanic—sometimes, that’s the smartest move.

Here’s my final advice: Keep a multimeter in your glovebox. It’s a $20 tool that’s saved me hundreds. And if you’ve tried everything and the problem persists, consider a professional diagnosis. Some issues (like bad grounds or wiring harness faults) need specialized tools.

Remember, a jump-start is a bandage, not a cure. The real solution? Finding the root cause. With the steps in this post, you’re equipped to do just that. Now go out there, pop the hood, and get your Cruze back on the road.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why won’t my 2013 Chevy Cruze start even with a jump?

If your 2013 Chevy Cruze car not starting will with jump, the issue may extend beyond the battery. A failing alternator, corroded terminals, or a bad starter could prevent the car from holding a charge or cranking properly. Always inspect the battery, connections, and charging system before assuming a simple jump will fix it.

Can a bad alternator cause my 2013 Chevy Cruze to not start with a jump?

Yes, a faulty alternator may prevent your 2013 Chevy Cruze from starting—even after a jump—because it fails to recharge the battery while driving. If the battery warning light is on or the voltage reads below 13V after a jump, the alternator is likely the culprit.

What are common reasons a 2013 Chevy Cruze won’t start but has power?

If your 2013 Chevy Cruze car not starting will with jump but interior lights and electronics work, check the starter, ignition switch, or fuel system. A clicking noise when turning the key often points to a bad starter, while no sound may indicate a faulty ignition or immobilizer issue.

How do I fix a 2013 Chevy Cruze that starts with a jump but dies immediately?

This usually indicates a charging system problem. Test the alternator output—if it’s below 13.5 volts, replace it. Also, inspect the battery for a weak cell or parasitic drain that could mimic a no-start condition after a jump.

Is a dead battery the only reason my 2013 Chevy Cruze needs a jump?

No, while a dead battery is common, a 2013 Chevy Cruze car not starting will with jump may also signal deeper issues like corroded cables, a failing starter, or a bad ground connection. Always rule out these components before replacing the battery.

What should I check first if my 2013 Chevy Cruze won’t start after a jump?

Start by examining the battery terminals for corrosion or looseness and ensure they’re tightly connected. Next, test the battery voltage and alternator output to confirm the charging system is working properly after the jump.